In-N-Out Burger: A Behind-the-Counter Look at the Fast-Food Chain That Breaks All the Rules

In-N-Out Burger: A Behind-the-Counter Look at the Fast-Food Chain That Breaks All the Rules

Selected Book Details

  • Hardcover
  • Author: Stacy Perman
  • Publisher: HarperBusiness
  • Release Date: April 2009
  • ISBN-10: 0061346713
  • ISBN-13: 9780061346712
  • List Price: $24.99

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Summaries and Customer Reviews provided by Amazon

Summary

Amazon Best of the Month, April 2009: With In-N-Out Burger: A Behind-the-Counter Look at the Fast-Food Chain That Breaks All the Rules, BusinessWeek writer Stacy Perman presents a chronicle of how a family-run California hamburger joint went on to become an American pop culture icon. Founded in 1948 by Harry Snyder and his wife Esther in Baldwin Park, CA, In-N-Out Burger attracted a cult-like fanbase of cruising teens, surfers, and celebrities alike (who developed a secret shorthand for custom orders). As they expanded slowly over the years across California and into Nevada, Arizona, and Utah, they never sacrificed their core customer-service values and commitment to quality. Their made-to-order success story packs enough family drama to fuel an HBO miniseries. After Harry died in 1976, his son Rich took over the business (and was responsible for adding discreet Bible verses to In-N-Out cups and wrappers) until his death in a 1993 plane crash. His brother Guy, a drag-racing rebel with a dark side, stepped in to helm the business until his accidental overdose in 1999. If you've never had an In-N-Out burger, Perman's book just might inspire you to find a good reason to get yourself to Southern California and seek out an off-the-menu 3x3 with a side of Animal Style fries. --Brad Thomas Parsons



Author Stacy Perman's Guide to In-N-Out Burger's "Secret Menu"
Except for the addition of 7-Up and Dr. Pepper, In-N-Out Burger's menu has remained much as it was when the chain opened its first drive-thru in Baldwin Park, California in 1948. However, at some point in time, a "secret menu" emerged. Something of an insider's code, it is an off-menu series of variations on the chain's standard fare (Double-Double, hamburger, cheeseburger, and french fries) that has been passed on entirely by word-of-mouth through the years.

Although the "secret menu's" origins remain a mystery, part of its existence can be explained by the fact that In-N-Out Burger has always insisted on cooking-to-order each individual burger any way a customer wanted it prepared. Over time, several of these variations gained traction and somewhere along the way a number of them were given their own names. While frequently steeped in rumor and apocryphal tales the "secret menu" is almost always used by those In-N-Out customers in the know.

These are the most popular "secret menu" items. In-N-Out Burger has listed them on their website (and even trademarked their names):
Double Meat: Two beef patties, lettuce, tomato, spread, (optional onions) on a toasted bun.
3x3: Three beef patties, lettuce, tomato, sauce, three slices of American cheese, (optional onions) on a toasted bun.
4x4: Four beef patties, lettuce, tomato, sauce, four slices of American cheese, (optional onions) on a toasted bun.
Grilled Cheese: Two slices of melted American cheese, lettuce, tomato, sauce, (optional onions) on a toasted bun.
Protein Style: Any burger served sans bun and wrapped in lettuce.
Animal Style: Any burger with mustard cooked beef, lettuce, tomato, extra sauce, pickle, and grilled onions on a toasted bun. (Note: the Grilled Cheese can also be prepared Animal Style)

A few more "secret" variations that have made the rounds for those in the know:
X x Y: Any number of beef patties with corresponding slices of American cheese (note on one memorable Halloween evening in Las Vegas a group of friends famously ordered and consumed a 100x100).
Flying Dutchman: beef patty or patties and American cheese slice(s) no vegetables or bun.
Veggie Burger (sometimes called a Wish Burger): no beef or cheese, just lettuce, tomato, or (optional) onions on a toasted bun.
Extra Everything: just like it sounds--extra sauce, tomato, lettuce, and onions served grilled or raw.
Chopped Chilies: mild chopped peppers are added to any burger.

The "secret menu" also extends to a variety of french fry variations:
Animal Style Fries: an order of fries slathered in melted American cheese, sauce, and grilled onions.
Fries Light: reduced cooking time resulting in softer, chewier french fries.
Fries Well-Done: increased cooking time resulting in crispier, browner french fries.
Cheese Fries: french fries bathed in melted American cheese.
Onion Variations:
The usual scenario is a whole slice of fresh onion cooked with the burger but In-N-Out will serve onions grilled, raw, and chopped if asked.

For those really in the know:
If you ask an associate at the counter they will give you a serving of yellow chili peppers.
Pickles are added only upon request.


Customer Reviews

Average Rating: Score = 4.0 Score = 4.0 Score = 4.0 Score = 4.0 Score = 4.0

A Truly Fascinating Story of a Truly American Icon

Rating: Score = 5 Score = 5 Score = 5 Score = 5 Score = 5

Perman has done foodies, burger aficionados, cultural critics and business people an incredible service with this book. Chronicling the rise of the iconic In-N-Out chain, the author manages to provide a meticulously researched, elegantly written account. The family saga here is so compelling -- packed with twists and turns -- you'd almost think parts of the work were fictional. But Perman's thorough, thoughtful analysis manages to go beyond mere narrative and make the tale of this eccentric family and their endeavors relevant to a wide range of readers. I can't think of another book that made me envious of an entrepreneur's savvy and, simultaneously, hungry. (Even a devout vegetarian won't be able to put this great text down.) Truly wonderful.

What about the Systems?

Rating: Score = 1 Score = 1 Score = 1 Score = 1 Score = 1

A few years ago I read "Behind the Golden Arches" which was the story of McDonalds. That book spent a lot of time talking about developing the great systems that McDonalds put in place in order to expand world wide. Until I went to In & Out I thought McDonalds had the best fast food system. However In and Out puts McDonalds (and all the others) to shame. The simplicity of the menu, being able to observe the preparation, not allowing long lines before taking the order, having a spare trash container next to the existing ones, the layout of the restaurants (I could be blindfolded in a new In & Out and find my way around), paying employees a bit more to get the good people. I'm dissapointed because this book doesn't address any of these in any detail. Who developed these systems? How long did it take? How have they changed over the years? In & Out is my favorite place to eat, but this book is not worth reading unless you like family gossip.

What a (famous) hamburger is all about

Rating: Score = 4 Score = 4 Score = 4 Score = 4 Score = 4

Perman's book is a reverent glimpse into a burger of iconic proportion and the family who created the legend. Filled with first-hand accounts from friends and associates, readers are given access to the more intimate side of the typically private Snyder family - the trials and tribulations of both a business and personal nature that helped shape some of the decisions that have kept the chain prosperous. All manner of details are included for the fan of the Double-Double: origins of the secret menu, the story behind those crossed palm trees and names of celebrities known to frequent their local drive-thru. Though there were sections that seemed repetitious (almost a padding out of some areas with previously mentioned facts), the book is an homage to a quintessential California establishment and emblem of quality and service. And it leaves readers with the story thus far - the future of the chain yet to be determined under its new (though still familial) leadership.

Good Book about the history and founders

Rating: Score = 4 Score = 4 Score = 4 Score = 4 Score = 4

Just finished reading the book In-N-Out Burger by Stacy Perlman about the creation of the iconic burger joint. The book has some great stories about the original founders. The husband/wife team Ester and Harry Snyder worked tirelessly and with lots of integrity to create a burger joint focused on "doing one thing an doing it better than anyone else"

The book begins when they founded the company in 1950 and the depiction of that time in LA was really interesting to learn about. The automobile was just coming on the scene and fast food restaurants were just starting. LA was a hotbed for them. In-N-Out, McDonald's, Carls Jr, Taco Bell an others all started around the same time in the LA area. Los Angeles at that time was the Silicon Valley of fast food in the 50's There was a hype and boom around it and it was making many food entrepreneurs millionaires.

From the beginning In-N-Out wanted to be a place that was family owned and run. Harry and Ester continually turned away offers to sell, expand quickly or even change the scope of the business. Whether it was stubbornness or not, staying small and focused was Harry's belief and it helped shape a truly unique restaurant that has - relative to other burger joints - healthier, better tasting burgers and a friendlier and cleaner environment all at a low price.

The book is also very much a out the Synder family - the dad, mom, 2 brothers, and granddaughter. Over 60 years of operation each one of these family members eventually ran the entire company. Harry was the main entrepreneur who built the core. When he died, he gave it to his youngest son who was equally talented and capable and built it up to be most like what it is today. When he died, the oldest son stepped in. He struggled with drug use and 6 years after taking over died from drug complications. After that, Harry's wife, Ester, at age 82 took over again until her granddaughter was able to assume control.

The beginning is a great tale of growth and success, the middle is an interesting story of politics and growing pains, and the end is sort of tragic as the youngest Snyder (Lyndsi) is far from the dynamic inspiration of Harry nor nearly as competent.

I happy to have read the book and learn about In-N-Out's secret sauce. If Harry, Ester or his son rich were still running the show I would bend I've backwards to eat there. But knowing that the company is now in somewhat incompetent and undeserving hands makes me believe that it's only a matter of time before they chain tries to overexpand, maximize profits and become more of the same rather that a unique place with a special culture. Sure hope that doesn't happen too soon

Some interesting facts:

* In the 1950's car hops were all the craze. In 1949 Harry built a two-way speaker system that allowed people to order their burger on the way in and pick it up on their way out in a fast, streamlined process. While Wendy's claimed to have invented the drive-thru in 1973, In-N-Out used it right off the bat for over 20 years prior to that
* The entire chain lived by Harry's quote: "Keep it simple, do one thing and do it the best you can"
* Harry felt he had to own the entire process on how to make beef patties and deliver to stores on daily basis. What you won't see in an In-N-Out are: freezers, infrared lights. or microwaves
* There's a secret menu: the term, "animal style" came from the 60's when the surfing community ordered the burgers with special sause. The other customers who wanted the sause started calling it "animal style" as they viewed the surfers as animals. Protein style. Lots think it came with the atlkins craze. But it came in the 70's when the founder (harry) started eating burgers without the bun to try to lose weight.
* Harry always paid his employees way over minimum wage. In 1950, min wage was 60 cents and he started everyone at $1
* Harry and Ester didn't want to expand to more stores but their employees wanted more shifts. Harry finally agreed to expand if he could staff an entire store with current employees and pay for it all in cash
* Every store opened is completely paid for - there is no debt
* LA is the birth place of fast-food and burgers. Right by Baldwin Park in San Bernardino Valley, McDonalds opened it's first store in 1948. Similarly, Carl's Jr started in 1945 and Fatburger in 1952 in LA
* Ray Kroc, who is credited for building the McDonald's empire actually approached 4 other chains before the McDonald's founders decided to sell exclusive franchise rights to him. In-N-Out was one of the 4. Harry declined almost immediately. At that time, many people were getting quite rich by starting fast food chains and franchising them. Harry felt lots of pressure to do the same. You can imagine how every one in your industry is doing something one way and you feel like doing the completely opposite. While he could have definitely made more money franchising, he has created a cult and beloved brand by doing the opposite.

IN-N-OUT-BURGER serves up an interesting tale...

Rating: Score = 4 Score = 4 Score = 4 Score = 4 Score = 4

Stacy Perman's informative book IN-N-OUT-BURGER is an inside look at the rise and RISE of my beloved In-N-Out Burger. Through Perman's no-nonsense prose, we are taken back to the late 40's...Post World War II America is prospering, and a young man named Harry Snyder meets a restaurant manager named Esther Johnson, falls in love, and soon opens a modest hamburger stand in Baldwin Park, California in 1948. Through hard work, and a fierce determination to serve quality food at low prices...Harry & Esther's small business quickly caught on, and soon the business was drawing large crowds, and large traffic jams. Harry Snyder called his business "In-N-Out-Burger" in reference to his business accomodating the booming car culture that emerged after World War II...In order to speed up the orderning process (& to save money on the cost of waiters and waitresses) Snyder invented a two-way speaker box so that customers can give their orders while waiting in their cars...essentially creating the modern drive-thru experience we have today.

Unlike virtually every other fast food business in the U.S....Harry and Esther Snyder operated their business as a way to make a living...NOT as a way to get rich. Expansion was only out of necessity...after long lines and traffic jams called out the need for other stores to ease the congestion...Harry was a practical man...and only opening up another In-N-Out Burger if he had the money to build the store, and purchase the land under it. He never borrowed on credit...it was always paid in cash. By the time Harry Snyder died in 1976...In-N-Out Burger had about 18 stores in the Southern California area. Despite many offers to expand further, and franchise...Harry and Esther Snyder insisted on keeping it a small, family-run business. Instead of cutting corners and costs in order to make more of a profit...the Snyders did the opposite... paying extra money to not only have high quality food (with everything fresh and made to order)...but also to pay their employees a higher wage than anybody else. To the Snyders...the workers at their In-N-Out Burger stores were the stars...and should be treated accordingly. There were no employees at In-N-Out Burger...everyone was an "associate"...never an employee. Customers were always VIPs...and were always right Farmers, and food merchants were treated like gold...In this simple yet radical mode of operation...everyone was happy...and with everyone happy...business always stayed strong. While every fast food restaurant in the country added and changed their menus in order to increase and expand business...In-N-Out-Burger stayed exactly the same...sticking with Harry Snyder's motto "Keep it simple; do one thing, and do it the best you can."

After Harry Snyder died, his youngest son Richard took over the business. Under Richard Snyder...In-N-Out Burger expanded to all parts of California, and extended into Nevada, Arizona, and eventually Utah. He also took In-N-Out Burger out of just being a simple, walk-up, drive-thru experience and turned into walk-up, drive-thru AND indoor restaurant experience. A deeply religious man, it was Richard Snyder who implemented a policy of having religious references to the Bible located on the bottom of various In-N-Out Burger cups and paper...a practice they continue to use to this day. Yet even in their broad expansion...Richard insisted on keeping In-N-Out Burger exactly the way his father left it...family-owned, with all of the food fresh and maade to order. Sadly, by the time In-N-Out Burger hit 200 stores...Richard Snyder (and other In-N-Out Burger executives) were killed in a plane crash in 1993.

Harry & Esther's oldest son, Guy, choose a different path than his younger brother Richard. For Guy Snyder...life was about fast cars, racing, and lots of drugs. Throughout his life, he fought constantly with his younger brother Richard. After Richard's death...Guy took over the company, slowed down expansion, yet kept the same core business values of his father and brother. Unfortunately, Guy Snyder's life of struggle and excess got the better of him, and he died of a drug overdose in 1999...leaving behind two ex-wives, his mother, and a daughter.

Esther Snyder did her best to run In-N-Out Burger for a number of years...though her health soon began to fail, and she passed away in 2006, at age 86. A power-struggle within the company was brewing during Esther's final years...and in a controversial move...Guy Snyder's ambitiuous ex-(step)son-in-law was named President of In-N-Out Burger upon Esther's death...with Guy's estranged daughter, Lynsi Martinez waiting in the wings to come of age...and take over full ownership of the company...

All in all, I enjoyed reading IN-N-OUT-BURGER. Considering how private the company is, Stacy Perman did an excellent job in getting as much information as she could about the inner-workings and history of In-N-Out Burger. Though I am not sure how much I liked Perman's writing in general..there was something lacking in it...an absence of style, or zest perhaps? Another thing that annoyed me was Perman's tendency to pad her book a bit with repetition, and (what felt like) non-pertinent information...That said, I am thankful that ANYONE took the time to write a book like this...and got a huge kick out of learning more about the place(s) I love...my home away from home...In-N-Out Burger.